Towering swells surge across the 12 mile passage between Rincon, Puerto Rico and an uninhabited isle. Our dive boat crests the waves time and again, summiting the indigo hills with ease. We plan to snorkel just off the shores of Desecheo Island, a National Wildlife Refuge that was once home to smugglers and pirates but now shelters a scrap of brown boobies, three species of lizards found nowhere else in the world, and a healthy population of introduced Rhesus monkeys.



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